Six years ago

Six years ago, I was temping at Ladies' Home Journal magazine, across from Grand Central Station.  H and I had just started dating, we were roommates who had just become a couple after a housewarming party the previous weekend.  I remember getting coffee and hearing a co-worker remark, "A plane just crashed into the World Trade Center." Huh, I thought, that's odd.    Suddenly, the news began to trickle in, online, by phone, and from co-workers who lived downtown and were on their way to work (they were fine, but saw some scary shit).  Ironically, I had forgotten my cell phone that day, but Voicestream (now T-Mobile) was one of the few carriers with service.  I called my mother in Tucson, waking her up with the news that someone crazy was going on.  My sister lived in D.C. but was fine.  H worked in Soho and was on his way from Brooklyn when he heard the news, so he returned home to watch the news.  He heard a guy *before* the second plane hit run down the street of our Crown Heights neighborhood yelling, "Yo, Osama, you my n****!" which I find really bizarre. 

After the towers collapsed, we all decided to try to get home, and I made my way across town to a friend's office in Times Square.  We then went to find a friend working at Fashion Week, but we were turned away from the tents.  "You won't let us in?!  It's mass chaos across the city and you won't let us in because we're not on the list?!" we screamed.  We then made our way to my friend's apartment in Chelsea to make more phone calls and get ready for the walk downtown/to Brooklyn.  We tried to donate blood at St. Vincent's hospital, but the lines went on for blocks and they turned us away, asking us to come back.  I continued on my own home to Brooklyn, walking with an elderly man named Frank (a good omen, I thought, that's my grandfather's name), who had been a few blocks from the WTC and had just been treated for a few cuts from debris.  We walked past Canal Street, the borderline that couldn't be crossed except by emergency workers, and it looked like it had snowed.  Cars were covered in ash, there was debris everywhere, and stunned people were walking away from downtown.  Unlike many people who say that they still notice the hole in the skyline, I could only spot where the towers were by the smoke that would persist for days.  We continued across the Manhattan bridge, along with thousands of New Yorkers, greeted in Brooklyn by Red Cross people who gave us juice and water.  Frank decided to go to his former office in downtown Brooklyn (he had worked for the MTA, I believe) and wished me luck.  The subways were working again and I got on a packed train, where everyone talked to each other like old friends, trading stories and rumors.  I got home to an empty apartment, as H and my other roommate had gone to Brooklyn Heights to try to see what was going on.  I remember being furious for some reason, that I had walked all that way to see H, and he wasn't there.  We spent the rest of the day watching the news, and our other roommate (a trained EMT), went to volunteer in the hospitals but said as the hours went on, fewer and fewer patients came in.

I remember that in the next few days, on the days we could even go to work, there were constant bomb threats and evacuations of the building due to the proximity to Grand Central and the UN.  I began carrying my purse even to the copy machine, in case I had to evacuate.  My temp agency later screwed me by doubting the 40 hour time sheet I submitted that week with approval from my bosses, they couldn't believe I had worked those hours and paid my only for the few hours I was actually able to be in the building.  The attack was all anyone talked about and everyone has a story.  I was really, really lucky that I didn't know anyone affected by that day, but one of my best friends was there and saw colleagues jumping and her apartment was virtually destroyed because of open windows that let in debris and ash from a few blocks away.  She's still not over it.  I got another temp job in early October, across the street from the towers, and heard horrific stories from the people who worked in the building.  I have photos of the site (I hate saying Ground Zero, it sounds like a tourist attraction, which it sort of has become) from the office on the 29th floor.  I worked there for over six months, and all of us who worked there got sick much more often than before, despite all of the claims that the air quality was fine.

This weekend, I watched Oliver Stone's World Trade Center. It wasn't great (what happened to the conspiracy theory we were all expecting from him?!), but somehow, it made me ball like a baby.  Despite being usually very unemotional about September 11th (I hate the term 9/11, it sounds branded, it's not like we call New Year's Eve 12/31!), the movie made me very sad and made me think of how hard it would be to lose my husband.  Warning: rant coming. Then it made me very mad as someone refers to vengeance at the end.  I understand why people feel the urge to avenge tragedies, but how is it helping to kill more people?  How does it make it any easier for families who lost loved ones to kill soldiers and Iraqi people?  Why would you want to have more widows and orphans?  What happened six years ago was horrific, but the U.S. has been fairly fortunate compared to most countries who have faced far greater disasters and genocides.  I just feel angry and sad not just about September 11th, but about everything that has happened since.  I also feel a certain anger towards Americans who didn't live in NY or DC, who didn't know anyone who died, who hasn't been affected by what happened.  I'm amazed they have the nerve to feel afraid, when I get on the subway everyday, don't bat an eyelash at flying, even when my husband often flies twice a week.  Sure, sometimes we feel afraid (this morning I made it a point to get to work earlier than 8:46am and practically held my breath on the train), but we carry on because we have to and there's nothing I can do about it.  I don't even agree with all of the airport security these days and the major loss of freedom we have, but that's another rant.  As Ben Franklin said, "Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."/end rant

This now concludes the obligatory "where I was on September 11th" post.  Have a good day.

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Day 8-9: Sligo

After catching our breath coming down the Slieve League cliffs, we sped along to County Sligo, home of Yeats, peat, and an overrated megalithic cemetery.  I should preface this entry with saying that our stay in this county nearly led to divorce, not that we had a bad time.  See, H is not generally what I would call cheap, he would leave Ireland wearing a pair of Dior sneakers and designer jeans, but when it comes to hotels, he's a bit of a Scrooge.  The only way I've stayed at flash hotels like the Shelbourne and the Merchant is through Marriott Points and an industry press rate, respectively.  Since the rest of the trip we were planning to stay at places costing around 80 euro, I felt we could splash out once, especially as this trip was celebrating my college graduation, an event ten years in the making.  We also wanted to check out a country house, which is a unique experience where you stay in someone's house and borrow their wellies and such.  Hidden Ireland and Sawday's are good for this type of hotel porn.  I ended up booking at Temple House, the most reasonable country house I could find in the areas we were visiting, for 2 nights and 1 dinner.  I will swear to my dying breath that H agreed beforehand to the price, and yet when he saw the final bill (about $600 all told), it was…not good. Anyway, fairly warned be thee, says I.

Arrived at Temple House with minutes to spare before dinner began, but we had long enough to marvel at the acres of sheep surrounding the house, check into our room, and change.  The place is amazing, like being on a Merchant Ivory film set, but less sterile.  They have a whole slew of dogs, including a basset hound, which I was partial to.

Our room, with armoires big enough to hide multiple bodies and actual drapes that needed to be drawn:

Coming down the staircase:

We all met in the morning room for pre-dinner drinks and to choose our wines, it was frightfully civilized.  There were two Irish couples: one from Galway with a baby coming imminently, one from Northern Ireland having a no kids weekend; an Italian couple; an obnoxious American couple who thought everything was just precious!; and the obligatory single Swiss man.  The Swissman had just finished a language course (in English, his was of course, flawless) and was about to go on a horseback riding holiday where you travel the country on horses, which was neat.  Our host, Roderick, gave us the history of the house (it's cool, but read the website, I don't have all night), told us the troubles of sheep rearing these days (apparently, most of the lamb in Ireland is imported, as they export most of their own!), and then left us alone.  For dinner, we all sat around a huge dining room table and tried to make small talk.  It was like being in Clue, but without a host or any murders.  Food was very good, I had my first parsnip, which was delicious (I had more than one, actually).  After dinner, we went back to the morning room and had more drinks and more drinks (this was part of the $600 bill, at 5 euro a pop, on the honor system).  We ended up staying up really late with the Irish couples and the Swiss man, talking about every topic you are supposed to avoid in polite company: money, religion, politics, and sex.  The Northern Irish man gave us a lot of personal insight into the Troubles and we even had a few arguments, but on the whole it was much fun and highly recommended.  Very interesting to learn that Ireland is so expensive even to the Irish that it is much cheaper for them to holiday in Spain or France than in their own country. Made me feel better about feeling so poor in Ireland.

The next morning we went to breakfast again at the big table (huge Irish fry ups were getting tired at this point, but it was excellent) and set out to see Sligo Town, up the road about a half hour from TH, which is in the middle of nowhere. Sligo Town is quite pretty, but also quite dull.  There is a cool modern art museum (The Model), but it is really tiny and had a fairly crap exhibit.  Weather was also fairly crap, raining on and off:

They do have a supercool abbey ruin, which we meant to go into but didn't for some reason:

Actually, I think we spent the most time in Sligo Town shopping, I found a TK Maxx (the UK/Eire TJ Maxx) where I finally got a cute raincoat, which I had been looking for since arriving in the country.  You've been seeing my functional but not very stylish LL Bean coat, this one was more like a trench and only like 20 euro.  For some reason, I have only one photo of it, on our last night in Dublin:


Will pick up next with the overrated megalithic cemetery and an afternoon in Ballymote.

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Travel planning

Yoinks, I have been lax with posting, will get back on it this week.  I have officially bought tickets to Nicaragua, planning to stay 8 nights on the Corn Islands over Christmas, and heavily into planning.  I've discovered a few new resources, aside from the usual guidebooks/magazines/TripAdvisor (which should be taken with a massive grain of salt).

  • Newspaper articles:  Okay, fairly obvious, but now most major newspapers have archived their travel sections online.  I find the articles to often be more current and accessible than travel magazines, who are usually writing for a more affluent (read: spendy) audience.  Check New York Times, Washington Post, LA Times, and USA Today for good profiles and articles.
  • Email writers:  Since working at Conde Nast Traveler, I've emailed the writers I already know who have written articles about destinations I'm interested in.  It just occurred to me to not stop there, I could email writers I don't know!  So, I emailed the writer of the LA Times article on Corn Islands that originally got me interested and she has responded with great information.  Most newspapers make it pretty easy to email staff writers, Googling also helps.
  • Search photos:  My new obsession is going to Flickr and Webshots and searching for photos from Corn Islands.  These can tell me a lot more than the hotel's website or anyone's review.  I can actually see what the beach looks like, how far it is from the room, whether there are monkeys on site (very excited about this, I pretty much live for monkeys and there seem to be quite a few living on both islands), etc.
  • Beyond Google basic: I will say without mild hyperbole that I have a PhD in Googling, I love to search and used Google Scholar constantly when I was in school.  For trip planning, I find searching News and then Blogs is really helpful in finding random people's trip recaps and photos that don't show up on a regular search, and now Google's Picasa can be added to my photo search.  Fun fact: my concierge.com Suitcase comes up on Google Searches now for most of the properties on the Corn Islands!  Have I plugged the Suitcase enough?! It really rocks.
  • Other guidebook options: This is sort of a catch-all category.  It won't work for every destination, but if you can find a good travelogue/memoir for your place, it can be way better than a guidebook.  I wish I had taken Pete McCarthy's book to Ireland rather than Fodor's.  For guidebooks, Lonely Planet has just put out a cool new feature: Pick & Mix, so you can buy just a chapter of a guidebook rather than the whole thing.  It won't work for my Nicaragua trip since Nica is half of the guidebook, but it is super cool and I will use for a future trip.  Finally, I'm listing and looking for guidebooks on SwapSimple.com, so I can get books without paying for them and rather than sell them on half.com for pennies, I can trade for stuff I want!  They have a Facebook application now too, which I've added to my growing list of applications, like the highly addictive Traveler's IQ Challenge

Anyway, back to work, will continue the Finnegan's Wake of a travel recap later today.

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Day 8: Donegal to Sligo

We awoke in our wee bed at the Green Gate, hoping in vain for another gorgeous day.  The weather had been a mixed bag over our first week; usually rainy and grim in the morning but burning off and warming up in the afternoon.  After a lovely breakfast (one of the best of our trip and while I love bacon more than life itself, I got a bit sick of Irish bacon everyday) with a shell-shocked looking Swiss couple, I signed Paul's guest book, which is about the size of the Oxford English Dictionary composed mostly of photos and drawings sent to the Green Gate.  I had to reassure him that I would tell the gang at Conde Nast Traveler that his website has changed, and I'm glad to see that they got the right one.  He gave us some recommendations for beaches and drives to check out on our way to Sligo that were well appreciated.  After a bath in brown water (sign reads: "The water is brown.  It is normal." due to peat in the ground), an odd but not unpleasant experience, we headed into town to check out the tweed, which is what Ardara does best.


We didn't go to Eddie's (shown above), as he also runs a pub next door and was installed at the bar when we passed and we didn't feel like making him open up shop for us.  We did go to a large store and factory at the end of the main road in Ardara, whose name escapes me at the moment, but can be recognized by the large amounts of tour buses outside.  We went in and wandered around, and while the stock is very nice, hearing the employees give their well-rehearsed spiel to masses of tourists with their wallets open at the ready turned me off immensely.  We walked up the hill and ended up buying our Aran sweaters at Kennedy's, which had the best prices I found and a no-pressure atmosphere.  We headed to the coast, driving through gorgeous misty hills and valleys, past many sheep of course.   Here is a map of County Donegal, we were in region 4, on the westernmost side:

Stopped in the little town of Glencolumbkille, where we were met by the
village idiot dog, who chased after us for ages, insisting we throw him
rocks and sticks to fetch on the deserted beach:


Gorge.  Moving on, we drove all the way to Malin Beg, which is even more remote and gorgeous.  We took a long flight of stairs down to the beach:



Just ridonculously beautiful but not that warm.   My forlorn bathing suit remained in my suitcase, tag still attached. e attempted to get closer to this structure to figure out what it was, but this was as close as we could get without incurring the wrath of rural farmers and sheep:

 Last stop in Donegal was the Slieve League Cliffs, the highest in Europe, but not as well known as the Cliffs of Mohr.  To get to the top, you can either hike about a kilometer from the lower parking lot or drive a harrowing drive to the upper look out spot.  We opted for walking and when we got to the look out spot, I was amazed but ready to turn around and go back. Oh no, H was insisting we go up *further*, up the ominous One Man's Path.  Um, yeah, perhaps you're acquainted with my fear of heights?!  He suggested we just go as far as I felt comfortable, since we'd come so far.  It was misty, but the views were still remarkable:


I don't think we actually made it to the pass, as it is described as having sharp drop offs on either side and I don't recall anything that scary.  We did get pretty high up there, enough for me to sit clinging to the dirt, far away from the edge, while H took photos and I begged him to stop before he fell down the mountain and left me a widow, a la Auntie Mame.  The way down was scarier, but I made it without tears or hyperventilating, though I am trying hard to keep it together here:

I will have to relabel this set of photos so that they have more information, we have a slew of beautiful shots from Donegal and Slieve League.  A word on my shoes: I had bought a pair of Dansko clogs for the trip, finding them practical but not hideous, despite H's snickers.  Anyway, I had tried to break them in the week before we left, but even a week into the trip, they were still making me walk in a way I can only describe as a pimp roll.  It turned out to be because of a small piece of leather embedded in the top of the shoe, which I still haven't bothered to get repaired.  I wore them anyway most of the trip, but seeing them again makes me wince at the memory.  Wow, that was a dull story.  Sorry.

On to Sligo next..

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TV talk

Last summer, I wrote about how I love British TV and their personalities and shows that have come here to grace us with their presence.  Hell's Kitchen and So You Think You Can Dance? remain classics and I think are way better than some of their peers.  HK is great because instead of having contested voted off by America, other insipid contestants, or a panel of washed up, so-called experts, they are voted off by Gordon Ramsay himself, whose wisdom knows no bounds.  Yes, each week's "winning team" (as determined by GR) nominates the contestants who most deserve to go home, but GR can and will completely disregard their nominations and send whomever home he wants to.  And he'll do things like off to send a promising-but-not-ready chef to culinary school.  It's too bad the contestants are pretty much all douches, but I'm looking forward to fall's Kitchen Nightmares, where I can get my GR fix without the dumb reality show premise.  SYTYCD? (does it have a question mark? I don't know, it should, as well as an exclamation point) is not exactly a meaningful television experience, but it's way better than American Idol and more entertaining.  This season brought the astounding robot stylings of Brian Gaynor and the brilliant improvised swing of Jamal Weaver (sorry I couldn't find just the swing part, but it's worth watching it all).  Plus, hostess Cat Deeley is a gentlewoman and a scholar.

But anyway, back to actual British shows.  I've also alluded to Little Britain recently, which is hysterical and should be added to your Netflix queue.  It's sort of hard to watch it all back to back, as many of the sketches are very repetitive, but it is quality stuff.  I hear they are going to bring it here to HBO, a la Ali G, which could be either really great or really bad.  Also recently, I watched the entire British Office series, which is two short seasons plus a special.  I'd seen the first season before but ages ago and I didn't remember much of it.   Without a doubt, Ricky Gervais is a comedy genius and it is great, but I'm going to come out and say it: I think the American Office is better.  While I realize much of the first season of the American version was ripped off from the original show (jokes, characters, and plotlines), I think the American version has grown into something in its own right that is amazing.  Last season's finale was one of the best of any show I've seen: drama! romance! intrigue! surprises!  The Pam-Jim romance is more nuanced and tragic than the Dawn-Tim romance, though that got me too in the original series.  Not to mention the developing drama of Michael and Jan, or Dwight and Angela.  I think it's the minor characters like Kelly and Creed that make it awesome.  The Creed Thoughts blog is maybe the funniest thing ever.  I can't even read it in public, it's so funny.  I see that there have been many updates to the blog since I've last seen it, I think I know what I'll be doing for the next few hours!

So, I've said it, it may be unpopular or even sacrilege to spurn the original show, but I think I prefer Scranton to Slough.

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Where’s next?

It's not even Labor Day, but my trigger finger is anxiously poised over my mouse, ready to buy tickets for a Christmas-NYE holiday.  After much debate with H, I think we are ready to make a decision.  I've mentioned some of this debate before.  H has become a New York provincial (actually not even Manhattan, as he won't even leave Brooklyn on the weekends unless forced) and has argued against Paris, my original plan.  "Why go to Paris when you live in New York?" says he.  Them's fightin' words, you say.  Well, he has some points, and he has been there nearly a dozen times.  His argument is essentially that he can understand if you live in the rural South why you would want to go to Paris (or New York or London, for that matter), but when you already live in a huge, cosmopolitan, cultural city, why use your vacation time visiting another?  When there are all sorts of crazy places out there like India, Bolivia, Sri Lanka, etc that would offer something totally different?  We also try to visit a few new countries a year without revisiting anything, at least for the time being.  Not to mention, Paris is expensive right now and December is cold, maybe even colder than New York.  All this made sense to me, but I still whined, "Wanna go to Paris!" until we compromised and decided we'd go for my 30th birthday if I haven't gone there for work or some other reason before that day arrives.

So it looks like we'll be spending this Christmas in Nicaragua!  Whaaa?! you say.  It's one of those things, like Cobb salad*, that I had never heard of (well, at least I hadn't considered it) and then one day, it's everywhere. What really interested me was this L.A. Times article about the Corn Islands, but I've seen articles about it in nearly every travel publication and newspaper section since.  Turns out that American flies there, it's 2.5 hours from Miami, wicked cheap, and has great beaches but no creepy resorts.  Done and done! You can see the many articles and sites I have collected already on my Suitcase on Concierge.com (I love this feature, btw). It's apparently the new Costa Rica (which we've never been to either and haven't really been interested in, in the interest of full disclosure)!  H and I are big fans of the "b-side destinations:" Uruguay over Argentina, Northern Ireland over the Republic, etc.  I've been obsessively looking for tickets to Managua (the capital city, which is supposed to be sort of shitty and only warrants a stopover, but we ended up loving Santiago, Chile, so who knows?) ever since I "discovered" Nicaragua, and I think I have to buy them tonight if I want to have any half-way decent flights.  I'm massively underwhelmed with Yapta, btw, they have yet to register all of the fare changes in the past few days but maybe they are better post purchase?  Anyway, that's what's next if I ever get out of Ireland, figuratively speaking.

Unrelated interesting article of the day: Branding a country.

Oh! and my friend Kevin's Ireland article is finally out in this month's CNT and it is awesome!  So jealous that he met Marian Keyes, awesome!  Too bad the Green Gate and Temple House (coming soon to this blog!) are just in Places + Prices, but glad they are in the issue.

*17 years ago, when my parents moved to Arizona, my mother had lunch at a restaurant where they had Cobb salad.  She had never heard of it, then ever since, she sees it everywhere.  So now it's one of those things that you say when you see something everywhere that was previously unknown.

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Famous!

I was thrilled this weekend to get so many comments from new Vox people!  When I discovered I was on the home page of Vox, I actually ran around shrieking like a banshee and generally driving H crazy. In case my fame ends soon, I took a screen shot:

To be fair, it's really H who should famous, as nearly all of the photos on this blog are his, even though he refuses to be named or shown on the wide, wide world of web (H is short for Husband or Himself, as Marian Keyes refers to her husband).  I yammer on and on, he takes gorgeous photos.  Mostly of graffiti, doors, dilapidated buildings, and me reading guidebooks.  I spent a lot of time Friday trying to make a customized banner for this blog of me reading guidebooks (there is apparently a photo of me in every country doing this, wearing the same sweatshirt) to no avail, but now I wonder if it is less clever than just narcissistic.    Well, if I figure it out, you'll know the story of why I'm posting photos of myself not looking at the camera.

Once I get some work done, I'm going to try to get through a few more counties in the neverending Ireland saga and visit all the blogs of those who were kind enough to comment here.

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TMI

Not that kind of information, I'm talkin' 'bout media.  I've been a big interweb fan since the late nineties, a forum poster since 2000 on Fodors when I've planned trips and Wedding Channel when I was getting married (all with this same mildly clever but getting dated username), and a blog reader for the past few years.  I've now discovered RSS feeds and it makes my blog reading wicked easy.  Since it's partially my job to keep up on travel news, and since I just don't know when to say when, I now read over a dozen travel blogs a day:

  • I also get weekly or daily newsletters from USA Today, NY Times, Budget Travel, Washington Post, Daily Candy, Manhattan User's Guide, and Thrillist.

It's getting to be a problem, but I just can't stop!  My favorite news of late: the continuing coverage of Well Behaved Monkey on a Ponytail (my friend Sherry's clever title for the inevitable but less exciting sequel to Snake on a Plane) and the related story on comfort animals, Russians trying to conquer world, and the ill-considered title of this trade pub.

Happy Friday!

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Day 7: Ardara, Donegal

We spent much more time than we planned or wanted to driving in Ireland.  It doesn't help that I don't drive at all and thus can't help out, but if we had to do it again, H would take the bus.  It took a few hours to get to Ardara, where we were going to stay the night at the fabulous Green Gate.  I had found the Green Gate online and was shocked to find a B&B that allowed, even encouraged, smoking.  Then I learned it was owned by a Frenchman (natch) and it's not for everyone: there are no showers, you have to stoop in most doorways, and the bathwater is brown.  But it is in a magical setting, and Paul could not be more charming.  I had read that he refused to rent to Americans, but when I called to reserve the room, he was thrilled that I was from New York.  He's also going to be profiled soon in the travel mag where I used to work, so I got more feedback on the place from the editor who is writing about Ireland and Paul's place.  Here is the town, which is lovely and bucolic:


After some difficulty, we made it to the Green Gate, which is about a kilometer from town.  Paul's signage along the road is not horrible, but here is the sign when you get to the gate, totally obscured by plants:

Paul is as charming as could be, offering us coffee and biscuits, as well as special Green Gate lighters and cigarette pack covers, to hide the large European warnings.  Excellent.  I told him how I'd been referred to him by a colleague who was writing a story about Ireland.  Paul seemed very concerned that the magazine wouldn't include his new website, as if a major national magazine would fail to fact check such an item.  He also joked that so many Americans come to Ireland and nearly knock the left-hand rear view mirror off their car, he should start selling them and make a fortune (there but for the grace of God goes our mirror).  Finally, he gave us some restaurant recommendations in town and told us we could have breakfast whenever we felt like it the next morning.    All the while that we sat outside chatting, bunnies hopped around us and birds alighted on Paul's shoulder, like a Disney cartoon!

Here are some pictures of the property, but no photos could do it justice. :

We headed into town on foot, not wanting to deal with driving back on tiny roads in the dark.  I began collecting bottles and trash along the way, muttering how no one respects the country code anymore.  Lookit how pretty:

One of many hilarious roadsigns.  80 kilometers?! You'd be lucky if you hit 40! The other side says 50, which also makes no sense, but often you will see an 80km and a 50km one on top of the other.  Confusing.


We had dinner at Nancy's on the main road, full of interesting objects and great food:

After dinner, we checked out the pubs, of which there are many (every Irish town, no matter how small, has at least two pubs).  Of all the places in the world, we walked into the one pub where the bartender was from Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, which is a few miles from where we live.  We were the only people in the place, so we talked about  Brooklyn and Ireland.  She offered this advice for driving on the left side: keep your right shoulder to the middle of the road and don't worry about how much space you have on your other side.   Sound advice.  We went back to the Green Gate (still on foot, apparently a first, most take a cab home as the walk home seems a lot steeper after a few pints) and entertained the idea of drinking wine outside but the midges prevented that.  Settled instead for guidebook reading and wine drinking on our tiny bed.  But no sleepwalking, thank God, as I would have ended up in the middle of nature!

Rather posted out for tonight now.

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Day 7: Out of Northern Ireland and into Donegal

After I had recovered my composure about my second potential nude sleepwalking venture, we headed out of town, stopping at the glorious beach.  Way too cold to swim, of course, but lovely to walk along:


A few hours drive from Portrush brought us finally to Londonderry/Derry, where Bloody Sunday happened.  It's also one of the oldest walled cities in Europe and very pretty.  We spent some time walking around the wall before we got our day's fix of political murals.

Uh, yeah, this is blackface.  Pretty offensive blackface, at that.  There must be some explanation?

Meg atop the Roaring Meg:

Stopped in this pub briefly, where an old drunken lady sang along to the Westlife music video and asked H if she could kiss him:

We spent a long time watching this car get repo'd:

Finally, we got to the Bogside, home of the nationalist murals and the Free Derry corner:

There are many more where that came from, but I feel I've been overselling these murals.  Finally, reluctantly, we left Derry and Northern Ireland.  You could tell immediately when you crossed the border into the Republic, as the road got suddenly much narrower and shittier.  We stopped in a supermarket for supplies right before Donegal and saw this notice by the bathrooms:

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